Lye Soap Making 101

Learn how to make homemade lye soap with wood ash & rendered animal fat or natural oils.

Lye Soap Making 101

Another comprehensive guide by MFRE


Saponification is the word used to describe a chemical reaction caused by the introduction of acid found in fats to the strong alkalinity of lye (potassium hydroxide) which takes place in the manufacture of soap. The process of saponification dates back so far that no one knows its exact origin. 

Todays “soap” that is mass produced and sold in the United States is not actually soap by definition. Most are considered detergents, and all boast a laundry list of harmful chemical ingredients. Some of these chemicals are actually registered as pesticides by the EPA. Saponification is a reaction induced by natural ingredients.
Fats can be derived from animal as well as vegetable sources. Beef tallow and pork lard are predominantly used, as well as vegetable oils such as olive oil, coconut oil, algal oil and sunflower oil.

Lye can be made from hardwood ashes or agricultural grade pulverized dolomitic limestone (ag lime). There was a day when dehydrated lye crystals (sodium hydroxide) were stocked on grocery store shelves, but that no longer rings true in today’s market. If you want to make lye soap, you may need to manufacture the lye yourself. Fortunately, through research and vast experimentation, we are able to provide a tried and true method for manufacturing lye from hardwood ashes on a scale that will suit a homesteaders needs.
Here’s how it’s done. 

Warning: Use of safety glasses and nitrile gloves is recommended. Lye is extremely caustic and can irritate or even burn skin. Proceed with caution.

Make Lye

The first step is to burn some hardwood and collect the ashes (softwoods such as pine and cedar won’t work). That’s a no brainer for those who use wood fired stoves, cookers, or a fireplace. 

sifting wood ashes into plastic bucket

Collect hardwood ashes.

It is necessary to sift the ashes. This process will remove any bits of charcoal or rocks, leaving nothing more than a fine powder. Sift the ashes into a non-reactive bucket with whatever you would use to sift flour. The point is to remove any foreign objects (charcoal, rocks, etc.).

junk in strainer that came from ashes

Sift out the bits of charcoal & other large impurities.

This is the junk that is sifted out of the ash. Toss it in the compost pile.

bucket system for extracting lye from wood ash

Craft a simple system for extracting lye from the wood ash.

Punch a nail hole one inch from the bottom of a plastic five gallon bucket. Leave the nail in place to stop up the hole. Elevate the bucket to facilitate draining of the bucket through the nail hole into a clean empty bucket.

Fill the bucket with the nail hole roughly two thirds full of sifted ash.

Pour boiling water over the ashes until the water level is a couple inches from the top of the bucket. Add more boiling water as the water level sinks into the ashes, maintaining the original water level of a couple inches from the top of the bucket. Cover and let sit for a few days.

After a few days have passed, pull the nail out of the hole & allow the water to drain into the empty bucket below. This will take quite some time (hours).

hydrometer

Test specific gravity of lye water with a hydrometer.

Test the specific gravity of the liquid with a hydrometer. A hydrometer can be purchased from an auto parts store (glass hydrometers are used to test the specific gravity of lead acid battery electrolyte).

Alternatively, a hydrometer can be made at home. Making a hydrometer at home is a fun technical project to introduce in a homeschool setting!

Making a hydrometer at home (a great homeschool project!)

To make a hydrometer using materials from around the home place, one must first collect the materials.

Option #1
    • 6” length of ¼”+- wooden dowel
    • Glass marble
    • Salt (sodium chloride)
    • Water
    • Deep non-reactive cooking pot
    • Fine point permanent marker
Attach the marble to one end of the dowel with a drop of super glue.

Place the dowel marble side down into a deep pot of water after recording the temperature of said water. Mark a reference on the dowel right at the water line. This reference mark represents a specific gravity of 1.000.

Boil a pot of water, stirring in as much salt (sodium chloride) as will dissolve. Salt (sodium chloride) is soluble in water only until the water is saturated and the specific gravity reaches a certain point, and then no more salt (sodium chloride) will dissolve. Allow the mixture to cool to the same temperature that the water was when you marked the first reference line. Place the dowel marble side down into the mixture and mark a second reference.
The specific gravity of the lye water should be the same as the salt water, or an SG of 1.20.

Option #2
This makes a hydrometer with superior accuracy. 
    • Plastic drinking straw
    • ¼” diameter by ¼” long stainless steel pan head machine screw
    • Super glue
    • Quart size mason jar or other suitable glass container
    • Pencil, paper, and a fine point permanent marker
Coat the threads of the stainless steel machine screw with super glue and thread it into one end of the straw.  

Fill the jar with distilled water.
Drop the straw into the water screw side first.

Mark a reference on the straw at the water level, and label it 1.0.
Measure the distance in millimeters from the bottom of the straw to the reference 1.0. Use this measurement as the value of “X” in the following equations. Do the math and record it on a piece of paper.
X/1.1 (X divided by 1.1 equals ______)
X/1.2
X/1.3
X/1.4
And so on…………..
The answers to these equations represent measurements in millimeters from 1.0 down the straw. Mark these references working downward from 1.0 and label them accordingly. The lye water should have a specific gravity of 1.20.

refractometer

A refractometer can also be used to test specific gravity of lye water.

If you are a homesteader you might have a refractometer for testing diesel exhaust fluid, battery acid, or even moisture content of honey from you beehives. If you do, it can be used to test the specific gravity of the lye water as well.

Lye water should have a specific gravity of 1.2 to be strong enough to make soap.

If the desired specific gravity has not been achieved, boil the lye water & pour it through the bucket of ash again. Repeat this process until the desired specific gravity is reached. Boiling the lye water in an effort to reduce it will strengthen the liquid as well.

Commercial lye comes in the form of dry crystals. This can be achieved by allowing the water to evaporate and collecting the resulting lye crystals. However, this procedure is not necessary as the lye in liquid form produces satisfactory results in soap making.

Once you have your lye water, it’s time to make soap!

Here are some recipes. Cut all ingredients in half for a smaller batch.

Bring one gallon of lye water to a boil. Stir in two pounds of fat (animal or vegetable).
Reduce heat.
Stirring constantly, reduce mixture to the consistency of cornbread batter. For soft soap, allow to cool & bottle. For hard soap (bars), add two tablespoons of salt to the lye water before adding fat.

lye soap bars

Mould soap into bars.

Pour the hot soap into a mold (hard soap). Fashion a mold from wood, or use a plastic container. Individual molds can be used for each bar, or one large bar can be made & later cut with a wire into the desired sizes.

When the soap hardens (a few hours to a couple days), remove it from the mold & place it on a curing rack. A curing rack is anything that will allow the soap bars to drain as they are curing. Curing time varies, but usually takes a few weeks. The reason for some of the vagueness here is that the quality of the fat & lye vary from batch to batch. Added ingredients also play a part in either reducing or lengthening cure times.

lye soap with additives

Abrasives, fragrance, & other additives.

Your imagination is the limit when it comes to additives.

We like to mix in chopped up green cedar leaves before pouring into the mold as an abrasive as well as a fragrance. This doubles as a soap used for bathing before a hunt.

Sassafras root can be infused into the lye water as a fragrance before adding the fat. Cinnamon can be used the same way.

One particularly interesting option is that of the loofa sponge bar. Simply cut a loofa sponge to a size that will fit inside the mold. Place it in the mold before you pour the soap in and you have an abrasive bar of soap! Loofa gourds can be grown and harvested for sponges almost anywhere in the United States (we sell seeds on this site).

Fruits, citrus, milk, honey, you name it. In different regions there are different variations of abrasives and fragrances available. Be creative.

Final Thoughts

Lye soap is naturally easy on the skin. Many people with sensitive skin or allergies opt for lye soap as a remedy. At the very least, you will be drastically reducing chemical exposure in your life, which in our opinion is something we all need to do. From dish soap to body soap, shampoo, & laundry soap, we are all exposed to soaps ingredients 24/7, 365 days a year.


Mississippi Foundation for Renewable Energy & BackwoodsEnergy.org will not be held responsible for any mishaps incurred as a result of YOUR application of any instruction provided in this document. We strive to provide accurate, helpful information through our tutorials, ebooks, & printed documents, but cannot account for the way said information is applied. Please follow all standard safety precautions & be responsible. All information conveyed in any of our publications is to be applied “AT YOUR OWN RISK & DISCRETION”. Please be careful.

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